enamélier
PORTLAND OR
"I have seen some crafts disappear during the last 30 years, Engine-turning almost disappeared, enameling as well, (at one point) there were only two or three decent enamelers left in the world."
– Juan-Carlos Torres, head of Vacheron Constantin
brief history
the ancient artform
This craft of enameling is an ancient one. Evidence of it surfaces throughout Europe and throughout history. The oldest extant true enamels come from Cyprus and consist of some 13th century B.C. rings and a scepter from the 11th century B.C., done in the cloisonné technique.
In America the art has been practiced since the mid-19th century, with the Art Nouveau era seeing many enameled objects produced from workshops such as Tiffany.
Since a renascence in mid 20th century, stimulated by such artists as Kenneth Bates, Edward Winter, Jean and Arthur Ames, and Jackson and Ellamarie Woolley, enameling has been established as a present and active art form in this country. It has strengthened greatly in recent years with the establishment of The Enamelist Society and the publishing of Glass on Metal magazine and with the conferences provided by the Society and now by the W.W. Carpenter Enamel Foundation.
inspiration
Dominique Baron
This charming young woman, with her blonde hair and welcome smile, is happy to share her magic. Self-taught, she perfected her art in the workshops of some of the watch industry’s most famous brands, before becoming independent and then setting up L’Atelier with the support of the Richemont Group.
Employing ten people, L’Atelier works for a number of brands (not exclusively Richemont companies) who are in search of some artistic alchemy.
Anita Porchet
Anita Porchet has a skill that Swiss watchmakers can't afford to do without. As an enamel painter, she decorates watches for the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin which can sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars.
Having been taught by her godfather as a teenager and worked tirelessly to refine her art over the years, the 53-year-old is determined to stay independent and has resisted recent overtures from big brands that wanted to recruit her.
Donzé Cadrans
In September 2011, Swiss watchmaker Ulysse Nardin SA announced that it had acquired Donzé Cadrans SA, the specialist luxury watch Manufacture dial enameller.
In 1972, Master Enameller Francis Donzé founded Donzé Cadrans S.A. Little did he know that one day his niche business would become world recognized for its superior capabilities as an enamel-dial specialist, particularly in ancient and high horology watch dials.
http://www.donzecadranssa.ch/
cadence
investment
glass kiln
purchase on Craigslist
$350
vertical mill
purchase used
$500-1000
enamels
purchase scrap
~$100
binoculars
purchase used
$150 - $300
other tools
~$250
purchase used
time
priceless