Clinging to Rocks

Bouldering is Fun

What is Bouldering?

Bouldering is a form of climbing without ropes or harnesses usually no higher than 20 ft (6m). 

History

  • Date to the mid 1800s
  • Began as a way to practice difficult climbing moves
  • Popularized in the US by mathematician John Gill
  • Gill introduced gymnastic chalk
  • Bouldering mats were introduced in the 1980s
  • Bouldering was shortlisted for the 2020 Olympics

Climbing Shoes

Climbing shoes were introduced in the 1920s by French Alpinist Pierre Allain. The key innovation was a hard rubberized sole and toe box allowing the climber to "smear" the rock face.

Grading Systems

  • The Gill "B" System
  • Fontainebleau grades
  • The Hueco Scale
  • UK technical grades
  • Japanese Dankyu

The Hueco Scale

  • First published in 1991
  • Dominant in the US
  • Devised by  John 'Vermin' Sherman at Hueco Tanks State Historic Site
  • Runs from VB - V19

Hueco Tanks

Types of Rock

The US has incredibly varied geology and different rock types can be found throughout the the lower 48 states.

Granite Boulders in Central Park

Glacial erratics

A glacial erratic is a rock that differs in type and size compared to native rock. These large rocks can be deposited by glaciers, ice rafting, and even ice bergs.

Sandstone!

Sandstone is formed from cemented grains of minerals or pre-existing rock fragments. These sediments are laid down by water or air over long periods of time. Sandstone makes up ~75% of the Earth's surface. It has friction qualities suitable for climbing and forms vertical joints/fractures.

Environmental Issues

  • Irresponsible climbers can trample ground cover and cause erosion
  • Littering is always a concern
  • It is possible to damage rock faces
  • Climbers can disturb sensitive wildlife

Indoor Climbing

Terminology

Holds

Grips

Gaston

Using Your Feet

aggressive heel hook

Bicycle foot grip

General Technique

I climb a little

but not like this

Thanks

Bouldering

By Chase Gilliam

Bouldering

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